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Thursday, December 12, 2013

Interesting trip to Huatabampito

Oh my goodness – we must have forgotten to check the weather report. It is raining in Huatabampito and has been most of the night and will be off and on all day. But it is warm and not windy. So yes we are in Huatabampito parked right in front of the beach. Kind of cloudy and dreary when we got here. Tomorrow is supposed to be nice. 
So anyway we left Totonaka RV yesterday morning at 9:30 and 167 miles, US$36 in tolls and four hours later we arrived at El Mirador RV. Took a long time right? Four hours for 167 miles.
The 15D from where we got back on it just north of Guaymas was in terrible condition and for the most part remained terrible until we got through Ciudad Obregón. Here we thought, “Goody they’re fixing the road." [No stripes or lane markings - new asphalt.]
Here we thought, “OMG is there room for us to go by?” Yes, but just barely. There was a several inch drop from the new asphalt to the old shoulder.
Then we were back on the old rough road. And the requisite horse grazing between the north and south bound lanes. He was not tethered – he was free to roam.
This small section of the highway was repaved but then they added not a tope (a single big speed bump) but vibradores – about 20 narrow bumps that get closer and closer together as you near the end of them. By the time you get through them your teeth are rattling and it takes a couple of minutes for everything in the motorhome to stop rattling. Not kidding!
And sometimes they are just painted white lines but you can't tell they are not vibradores so you slow way down to drive over white lines. Tricky- but it works everyone slows down. 
Here we are going on down the road passing a small roadside restaurant that must serve good food judging by the trucks parked near it.

Not too far we came to an unexpected road block. Well not quite a road block…There were several Indian looking men in jeans and jackets and hats standing in the road. They were waving the cars and busses onto the on coming traffic side of the road and the trucks through on the southbound lanes. Where they came to a dead stop. Hummm? Lots and lots of trucks parked on the highway and us going south on the northbound lanes.
A new military check point? But those weren’t police or soldiers directing the trucks. Passing through the little town of Vicam – see the tope? [Little towns love topes.] And still more trucks.
As we passed the front of the line I snapped a picture showing the tires and cones stopping the flow of traffic.
Another shot – now we were on the southbound side of the road as is the northbound traffic. A sign posted in Yaki and Spanish was hanging on the overpass. As close as Bill could figure it out – Someone named Padrés is trying to put a tax on the water. So the residents of the area want him to resign. They won’t give up until he resigns. – So they are stopping all truck traffic. For how long? Don’t know. EDIT - the reason for the road block http://intercontinentalcry.org/road-block-to-stop-theft-of-water-from-yaqui-peoples/  Very interesting. Here is a quote from the article: “All members of the Yaqui tribe, traditional authorities and people in general…to participate in the protest on the road in Vícam as Guillermo Padres illegally connects a pipe to the Novillo dam, stealing water that belongs to us. This is water that is lacking in our territory that is used to irrigate our lands, and to consume without getting sick. It is very, very important for us to revive the Yaqui River that is completely dry now. ”

The trucks going north. See the men with the red flags.
A long long line of trucks. The truckers didn’t seem to be complaining….Another tope in this picture. The little food stands along the road were doing a land office business. 
Here we go this will really get your attention vibradores and a tope. And vendors selling something. Or people collecting for a cause. Can’t remember which.
The road did improve once we were through Ciudad Obregón. All brand new concrete pavement all the way to the turn off to Huatabampo. And most of the traffic signals that used to be just south of the city are gone now that the road is finished. 
But don’t get complacent – there are still cattle on the loose. Grazing between the lanes. 
As we left Obregón we saw lots of people walking south along the side of the road. At first I thought they were students just out of school but then took a good look. All ages from young to old. Almost like a pilgrimage. Then I remember the big painting of the Virgin of Guadalupe on a hill not too far south. And sure enough that is where they were going. Lots of people there climbing the stairs up the hill to the Shrine. Today Thursday the 12th is the day of celebration for the Virgin.
Driving through Navojoa stopped at a signal we watch this young man twirl his stick with the fire on the ends for the enjoyment of the drivers. Actually it was for the money he hoped to collect from the drivers. A few gave him some.
I like the traffic signals in Navojoa – for the pedestrians the seconds tick down and the little green walking man walks faster and faster and finally runs.

And as we were going through another little town – now off the main highway – this guy decided the grass on the other side of the street looked greener. All traffic stopped.
When we pulled into El Mirador RV park there were three seagulls on the sand. By the time we were settled in a whole bunch more showed up. I swear they remember Bill. All he has to do is go outside and they come. BUT – we didn’t have anything to feed them! So had to go into town to the Leys to get some tortillas and cookies. Took a quick shot of these cupcakes – don’t they look good?
Didn’t buy them. Did get a roasted chicken for us and several kilos of tortillas and two packages of cookies for the birds. This Leys like the one in Guaymas also had a Christmas tree decorated with yellow and red lingerie. Must be a Leys thing. 

Here at the RV park there is only one other RV. And for some reason this year the park’s Internet isn’t working. I guess it comes and goes but it has been gone since we’ve been here so I’m using the TelCel stick the Banda Ancha – I’m surprised it works because our phone doesn’t have even one bar. But so far it is working great and fast. 


  1. WoW!!!! What a crazy trip! We never did get internet at El Mir. - say hi to Huatabampito for us! Really liked it there - and of course - where we met you guys!

  2. An interesting read for me today. We traveled through all of this on Wednesday. We were making a quick trip to Nogales and back from Puerto Vallarta to deal with importing our car. On the northbound trip on the 8th we were talking about the possibility of getting stopped by the Yaqui in Vicam as it had been in the news previously. No problems going north or back south on Wednesday......looks line we just missed it though. There have been times that all traffic has been blockaded apparently. Saw the guy twirling flames in Navojoa and also enjoyed the new concrete roadway south out of Cd.Obregon! I enjoy reading about your side trips to the villages. My kind of travel too!